Propane Converter

I have an earlier version of this adapter from Century Tool. It has a thumb wheel needle valve that gives fairly precise control of the flame, but the earlier version is unregulated, and so requires periodic tweaking of the control to maintain a constant flame size. That's not as bad as it sounds, because most camp cooking is hands-on with frequent heat setting changes anyway, and one doesn't tend to leave pots on camp stoves to simmer for hours. The tube is steel and the orifice at the tip is yellow brass. There's an extension spring with a hook end that extends to grab the sheet metal of your Coleman stove to keep the adapter from falling out. (Original Coleman liquid fuel tanks hook into the front of the stove and so don't need such a spring.)

I've been using my adapter with a Coleman Model 424 2-Burner Dual Fuel(tm) Standard Compact Stove (Coleman fuel/white gas or unleaded auto gas) for about 10 years, effectively turning it into a Triple Fuel stove. The adapter accepts 1 lb disposable propane cylinders, or can be connected to a bulk propane cylinder by means of a hose, available here at and many camping/outdoor gear suppliers.

The only drawback I've found is that the adapter tends to sag and put pressure on the burner bowl. The hole in the front of the stove through which the gas generator tube from the liquid fuel tank passes is a vertical oval, a bit oversize, and allows the propane adapter a fair amount of angular play, more than it needs. When the stove is going full blast, the bowl gets red hot and softens, and the weight of the adapter tube plus disposable propane cylinder warps the bowl into a saddle shape. It doesn't harm the usability of the stove, but it looks a bit unsightly. I took the time today to remove the burner bowl, placed it on a fire brick and heated it to cherry-red with an acetylene torch equipped with a heating tip; I then pressed the bowl with a piece of heavy aluminum plate, returning it to near-factory condition. Afterward, I used a piece of 1/8 inch brazing rod (yellow brass) to fashion a clip that hangs on the front edge of the Coleman stove and supports the Century Tool propane adapter so that the tube doesn't touch the burner bowl. My clip design allows the stove grate to be lifted in the usual way for cleaning and stowage of the liquid fuel tank and various accessories. The clip now gets tossed into the stove along with the propane adapter and will go wherever the stove goes. Problem solved!

Propane and natural gas can save you time, money and aggravation. 

Our do-it-yourself change over kits allow you to run your gasoline generator on propane (LP Gas), natural gas, or all three.  Propane and natural gas are truly a backup fuel for a backup generator.  Your engine will last longer, start better in cold weather and even start next year when you go to use it in an emergency.  The best part is, with one of our do-it-yourself kits you can change your engine from gasoline to propane or natural gas all by yourself.


Why use propane to power your generator?

If you have propane available you know you can store propane for years because it does not gum up, go bad, or pollute the air like gasoline does.   You can use the 100# (24 gallon) cylinders, little bar-b-q grill type 20# cylinders, which is equivalent to 5 gallons of gasoline, or big tanks like 250, 500 and 1000 gallon ASME tanks.


Why use natural gas to power your generator?

If you have Natural gas available you would certainly agree that it is probably the most dependable fuel on earth and virtually an unlimited supply.  Natural gas is always there.  It does not gum up or go stale like gasoline. 


Here are many more of the benefits:



Propane and natural gas powered engines provide the same power as gasoline.

bullet Longer, uninterrupted run times!
bullet Connect to big tanks or to your natural gas pipe line.
bullet Your generator will last longer because of larger fuel supply and less running out under load.
bullet Clean burning Alternate fuel will help extend the life of your engine life.

Our kits are specially designed to bolt on carbureted 22R Toyota truck motors, and are designed to use your existing carburetor throttle plates. These are excellent conversions - very simple and clean. Most customers report back an increase in power! We test run and tune each and every one of these on our test truck to ensure the best mileage and power. Installation time should take 2 to 5 hours depending on your experience (this includes removal of your existing fuel system). There is little to no fabrication required.
20r kits require the use of a 22r carb base and a 22r carb to 20r manifold carb adapter from L.C. engineering. These are street legal as long as your local emissions laws allow it.

22RE kits.
We now have a kit designed to use the E.F.I. engine. They are designed to run propane only. Lose that smashed up gas tank and poor driveability due to faulty sensors and old wiring with bad connections. It requires a carbureted distributor and ignition coil. It retains the stock intake manifold and throttle cables. It is designed to remove all of the efi wiring and sensors related to gasoline, resulting in two wires required to power the engine!

We usually use about 5 to 6 gallons if we run the truck non-stop all day. This is rock crawling/ trail running, about 8 good ones! A typical day of normal trail riding uses about 4 gallons. There is no loss in power with these kits, only power gains!! These are legal for road use depending as long as your local emissions laws allow it.

Note: These are not forklift kits! Don't be fooled by other companies that claim to be the same. Unfortunately this is not the truth. There are several very important differences that affect power and longevity. It is equivalent to a one barrel carburetor! Compare it to my samurai kit minus parts!